Exploring nature around Dresden: the Bastei and Königstein

The city of Dresden has lots of interesting things to offer to tourists, but why not explore its surrounding regions? We made a trip to the village of Rathen, just 35 kilometres southeast of Dresden. It’s really easy to reach by train in about 5 minutes (S-Bahn, direction Schöna). In the summer, you can also take a boat from Dresden to Rathen. Rathen is known for two things: it’s climatic spa and the famous Bastei-rocks. We came to see the latter!

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Take the ferry to get from Oberrathen, 200 metres from the S-Bahn station, to Niederrathen, on the other side of the river Elbe. From there you can walk to the Bastei cliffs.

Saxon Switzerland

The Bastei-rocks (Bastei means ‘bastion’) are famous for their bizarre shapes, caused by water erosion more than one million years ago. The rock formation towers 194 metres above the Elbe. No wonder so many painters have portrayed this special landscape in the past few centuries! The Bastei-rocks are part of a large climbing and hiking area. Confusingly, the rocks are located in a national park called Saxon Switzerland. About 250 years ago, two Swiss artists decided that this area just looked very much like their homeland.

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The Bastei-rocks are famous for their bizarre shapes, caused by water erosion long ago.
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The Bastei is also a perfect location for climbing…if you dare!

Bastei Bridge

For more than 200 years, tourists have been visiting the Bastei in large numbers. So be prapared for large crowds when you climb up the steep footpaths and steps, that take you through beautiful woods all the way to the top! Fotunately, you have the opportunity to take a break at the several magnificent viewing points along the route. One of them is the famous Bastei Bridge, a 76,5 metres long, man made bridge that connects the mountains. The first bridge was built in 1824 and was made of wood. The current one is made of sandstone and was built in 1851.

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It’s often crowded on the Bastei Bridge!
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Enjoy the spectacular views from the Bastei.

Neurathen Castle

From the Bastei Bridge, you can enter the ruins of Neurathen Castle. The entrance fee is 2 euros and it is certainly worth it, if only for the spectacular views. Felsenburg Neurathen was built in the 11th century and burnt down by a besieging army in 1484. So there is not much left of the original castle except for some rooms and a cistern. Nowadays, Felsenburg Neurathen is an open-air museum displaying ruins of the fortress, a slingshot replica, and excavated materials like potteries and other artifacts.

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Walk through the ruins of Neurathen Castle.
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These boulders, displayed in Neurathen Castle, were used to shoot from a medieval catapult or slingshot.

Reaching the top of the Bastei took us about an hour. When you get there, you will find lots of restaurants and outdoor cafes where you can toast with your friends to reaching the top of this fantastic mountain!

Köningstein Fortress

In the afternoon, we took the train to the village of Köningstein, which is only one station from Rathen. There we wanted to see the Köningstein Fortress. We decided not to go hiking all the way tot he castle on the top, as we were still exhausted from climbing the Bastei. Instead, we boarded the Festung Express, a vintage-looking double-decker bus, that takes visitors to the fortress.

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The Königstein Fortress consists of about 50 buildings. Credits: Wikimedia Commons

Königstein Fortress is one of the largest hilltop fortifications in Europe and is located on the rock plateau of a table mountain. The 24 acres plateau rises 240 metres above the river, offering stunning views on the Elbe river and its surroundings. The fortress was built in the 13th century. Around the castle, you will find about 50 buildings, a mix of late Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque and 19th century architecture. Königstein Fortress a Medieval castle, then became a monastery. In1589, the building was turned into a fortress. Due to its strategic position, no enemy ever attacked the fortress. The building was mostly used as a prison. Until 1922, it was the most feared prison in Saxony.

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The fortress lies about 240 meteres above the river Elbe. Credit: Wikimedia Commons

Since 1955, Königstein Fortress has been open tot he public. About 700,000 tourists visit the well preserved citadel every year. So be prepared for large crowds in and around the castle, especially in the summer. Entrance fee to the fortress is 10 euros, but expect prices for refreshments and toilet use to be quite steep, as usually is the case at tourist hotspots.

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Königstein Fortress, high above the rocks.

Kassel-Wilhelmshöhe, a perfect match between art and nature

Germany has always been a favorite holiday destination for us Dutchies. No surprise, because the country is our neighbour and has a lot to offer for everyone: a diversity in landscapes, many different activities to do, friendly people and good and affordable food. The language resembles Dutch. And don’t forget the famous Deutsche Gründlichkeit: when the Germans do something, they do it thoroughly. Hence, most accommodations are clean and comfortable, and so are the facilities in German cities. For example, I always find the streets in Germany to be much cleaner than in my own country. What else is there to wish for?

Kassel kaartje

In September 2017, we travelled through the eastern part of Germany. We started our trip in Kassel-Wilhelmshöhe, an UNESCO World Heritage site in Central Germany, and after that we visited Leipzig, Dresden and Berlin. We travelled by train, for a change. Because usually we take a plane. But, to be honest, I think travelling by train is much more relaxed. No luggage checks, no cramped chairs you have to sit in, no noise of airplane engines. Instead, you just put your luggage in the racks above your head, take place in comfortable seats and enjoy the views! Plus, travelling by train is of course much better for the environment!

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The mountain park gives a magnificent view on the city of Kassel.

Kassel-Wilhelmshöhe

Our first destination was Kassel-Wilhelmshöhe. For those of you interested in art, Kassel may ring a bell because of Documenta, the most important visual arts exhibition in the world. Actually, the exhibition took place while we were there, and it contained lots of artworks spread all over the city.

But Kassel has another big attraction: Bergpark Kassel-Wilhelmshöhe. This is the largest moutain park in Europe (2.4 square kilometres) and also a UNESCO World Heritage site. The park owes this title to the impressive combination of different styles of landschape architecture and various works of art. Did you know it took about 150 years before the contstruction of the park was really finished? Building started in 1696 and through the decades, many expansions followed. The idea for the mountain park came from Landgrave Charles 1 of Hessen-Kassel.

The park contains a large number of attractions and if you want to see all of them it is going to take you a lot of time! We spent at least half a day there. One of the reasons is the simple fact that this park is a mountain park. Who wants to see this world heritage, has to have a good condition because it’s all about climbing and descending here! This makes the park an excellent training location for whoever wants to improve his condition and enjoy great views at the same time. So don’t forget your hiking shoes!

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It takes a lot of climbing and descending to see the mountain park. Your reward: great views!

The water works

The largest attraction in Mountain Park Kassel-Wilhelmshöhe are the water features. Visitors can follow the water on its way from the Hercules Monument down into the valley on Wednesdays, Sundays and public holidays. And every year from June to September, the illuminated water features take place on the first Saturday of each month. The water features culminate in the Grand Fountain in the pond overlooking Palace Wilhelmshöhe. Note that there have been construction works going on since 2016, which will also affect the course of the water works.

Wilhelmshöhe Palace

Schloss Wilhelmshöhe, or Wilhelmshöhe Palace, was built in 1786 and nowadays it it and art museum. It is a neoclassical palace, built for Landgrave Wilhelm IX of Hesse. After that, emperor Wilhelm II used it as a summer residence and personal retreat. In the 12th century, there was a monastery on this site, later used as a castle. In the beginning of the 17th century, it was replaced by another castle, and eventually by the current building.  Did you know the palace has one of the largest Rembrandt collections? You can find it in the Gallery of the Old Masters.

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Wilhelmshöhe is a museum now, it has, amongst others, the largest Rembrandt collection in the world.

Löwenburg Castle

Another must see in Mountain Park Kassel-Wilhelmshöhe is Löwenburg Castle. This is one for the romantics! At first glance, this looks like an authentic old castle ruin from the Middel Ages. It even has a lovely garden that seems to come from the same period. But when you enter Löwenburg Castle, you immediately realize that this place was built much later than the Middle Ages, because the interior is al Baroque. This castle was built between 1793 and 1801. It is one of the first examples of the Gothic Revival in Continental Europe. Löwenburg Castle was the ‘pleasure palace’ of Landgrave Wilhelm IX. Sadly, the artificial castle ruins became real ruins during World War II, when the castle was damaged by bombs. By the way, did you know that Löwenburg was the model for Disney castles?

Apart from the palace, the water works and the castle, you will see many more, smaller, artefacts and buildings in Mountain Park Kassel-Wilhelmshöhe.

How to get there

We took an ICE-train from Düsseldorf to get to the city of Kassel. Mountain Park Kassel-Wilhelmshöhe is easy to reach by tram and bus. There are also buses going straight to the Hercules monument, on top of the park. We decided to walk about 2 kilometres from our hotel (the Penta Hotel), which is close to the Kassel bus station. Find more information about Mountain Park Kassel-Wilhelmshöhe here.